Aprilia RS660 Racing Alternator Kit 2020+
Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation! This is a complete ready-to-install kit, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier leaning, especially in switchback turnssignificantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:faster downshiftingless instability, more stable rear endmore time and comfort when corneringlater brakingimproved response to throttle commands, faster acceleration The typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine. In this kit, a rotor with 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g is used. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all, the gyroscopic forces are reduced by the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. An example to illustrate the effects: A standard rotor at 14000 rpm, due to its larger radius, has a rotational speed of 320 km/h, while the kit rotor only reaches 120 km/h. The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm). Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.
Aprilia RSV4 1100 Racing Alternator Kit 2021+
Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete ready-to-install kit including a revised new alternator cover, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.This kit includes an elaborately CNC-machined and significantly lighter rotor, including ignition markings.In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense:- Easier leaning, especially in switchback turns- significantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in: * less instability, more stable rear end * more time and comfort when cornering * faster downshifting * later braking possible- improved response to throttle commands, faster acceleration- The typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine.The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat.Our alternator kits use smaller rotors with particularly effective magnets and a highly efficient wire winding of the coil. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Our regulator features a 20-turn potentiometer for adjusting the maximum output voltage (counter-clockwise increases the output voltage).Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 battery are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.
Aprilia RSV4 1000/1100 Racing Alternator Kit 2009-2020
Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete ready-to-install kit, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense:Easier leaning, especially in switchback turnssignificantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:faster downshiftingless instability, more stable rear endmore time and comfort when corneringlater brakingimproved response to throttle commands, faster accelerationThe typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine.In this kit, a rotor with 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g is used.This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all, the gyroscopic forces are reduced by the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. An example to illustrate the effects: A standard rotor at 14000 rpm, due to its larger radius, has a rotational speed of 320 km/h, while the kit rotor only reaches 120 km/h.The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator.Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 battery are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.
Aprilia RSV4 / Tuono racing track rearsets 2009-2025
Lazmonsta Racing RSV4 / TUONO rearsets developed for track use compatible with RSV4 & TUONO V4 2009–2025 high-strength AlZnMgCu 1.5 F53 engineering-grade aluminum for high static and dynamic loads racepace material thickness double surface hardness increased via hard anodizing with 500 HV, resulting in excellent corrosion protection thanks to hard-anodized surface the grip of the machined serrations on the foot pegs does not wear smooth excellent operability thanks to dual FAG ball bearings in brake and shift levers exceptional grip through precision-machined foot peg serrations individual adjustment for a more comfortable riding position adjustable and crash-protected shift lever by popular request: foot pegs with reduced diameter (−7 mm) lowest position now even more comfortable (−3.5 mm) fast spare parts availability thanks to in-house production MADE IN GERMANY
Frame Protection Pads Aprilia Racing RSV4 Tuono
APRILIA Racing Frame Protectors – RSV4 / Tuono V4 This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RSV4 Aprilia Tuono V4 Kit contents: 2 side-mounted protector pads 4 bolts incl. sleeves CNC-machined from solid Polyoxymethylene (POM). This high-performance engineering thermoplastic offers excellent dimensional stability, low friction, and outstanding wear resistance. ⚠️ NOTE: For race track use only. No type approval (ABE), no warranty.
APRILA Racing Emulator Kit EURO5 2021+
This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RS 660 and Tuono 660 APRILIA RSV4 and APRILIA TUONO V4 Model years 2021 to 2024 with Euro 5 engine, and includes the following functions: Front headlight emulation, tail light emulation, as well as a bypass plug to eliminate the side stand switch If applicable, lap time display in the dashboard if a compatible lap timer module is installed (not included) This kit was developed by AndroidX and manufactured by IRC. IMPORTANT: Track use only, no road approval / no warranty. Scope of delivery: Ignition switch / kill switch adapter wiring harness to repurpose the kill switch Installation instructions ⚠️ IMPORTANT: For track use only. No road approval, no warranty.
Shift Shaft Support Aprilia Racing RS660 Tuono 660
This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RS660 Aprilia Tuono 660 Kit contents: 1 CNC-machined black anodized aluminum shift shaft support stabilizer unit with needle bearing 2 screws inclunding sleeves Made of high-strength aluminum, the shift shaft reinforcement stabilizes the shift shaft that stick out too far and thus prevents elastic twisting during fast and hard gear changes. This eliminates shift problems and protects your gear box. ⚠️ NOTE: For race track use only. No type approval (ABE), no warranty.
Sprocket Cover Aprilia Racing RSV4 Tuono
This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RSV4 Aprilia Tuono V4 Kit contents: 1 CNC-machined black anodized aluminum sprocket cover 4 bolts Can be perfectly combined with the separately available shift shaft support offered here. ⚠️ NOTE: For race track use only. No type approval (ABE), no warranty.
Racing Key Switch / Kill Switch Bypass Aprilia RSV4 2021+
This Racing Key Switch / Kill Switch Bypass adapter harness allows you to remove the ignition lock and use the existing kill switch to turn the ignition on. WARNING: For racetrack use only – no road approval, no warranty.This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RSV4 Aprilia Tuono V4 from model year 2021 onwards Scope of delivery: Ignition lock/kill switch adapter harness for converting the kill switch Installation instructions ⚠️ WARNING: For racetrack use only. No road approval, no warranty.
Racing Key Switch / Kill Switch Bypass Aprilia RSV4 up to 2020
This ignition lock/kill switch bypass adapter harness allows you to remove the ignition lock and use the existing kill switch to turn the ignition on. WARNING: For racetrack use only – no road approval, no warranty.This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RSV4 Aprilia Tuono V4 from model year untill 2020 Scope of delivery: Ignition lock/kill switch adapter harness for converting the kill switch Installation instructions ⚠️ WARNING: For racetrack use only. No road approval, no warranty.
Axle Protection Slider Aprilia Racing RSV4 Tuono
This kit is compatible for the APRILIA RSV4 and APRILIA TUONO V4 and contains two front axle protector two rear axle protector Milled from Polyoxymethylen (POM) plastic. POM is one of the typical engineering thermoplastics with good mechanical properties and high dimensional stability as well as excellent sliding and wear characteristics. Press fit: axles in the oven at 80 ° C / protectors in the freezer for 12 hours, then carefully hammer into the axle with a wooden interlayer and heavy hammer! ⚠️ NOTE: For race track use only. No type approval (ABE), no warranty.
Shift Shaft Support Aprilia Racing RSV4 Tuono
This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RSV4 Aprilia Tuono V4 Kit contents: 1 CNC-machined black anodized aluminum shift shaft support stabilizer unit with needle bearing 2 screws inclunding sleeves Made of high-strength aluminum, the shift shaft reinforcement stabilizes the shift shaft that stick out too far and thus prevents elastic twisting during fast and hard gear changes. This eliminates shift problems and protects your gear box. Can be perfectly combined with the separately available sprocket cover offered here. ⚠️ NOTE: For race track use only. No type approval (ABE), no warranty.
SLS Cover Aprilia RSV4 Tuono V4 RS 660 Tuono 660
This kit is compatible for the APRILIA RSV4 and APRILIA TUONO V4 APRILIA RS 660 APRILIA TUONO 660 and contains 2 x CNC milled SLS cover made of aluminum including rubber sealing ring 4 x screws 1 x Rubber stopper 1 x cable tie ⚠️ NOTE: For race track use only. No type approval (ABE), no warranty.
Coolant Reservoir Kit Aprilia Racing RSV4 Tuono V4
APRILIA Racing Coolant Reservoir Kit This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RS 660 and Tuono 660 Aprilia RSV4 Aprilia Tuono V4 Kit contents: Sturdy aluminum mounting bracket Chemically and temperature resistant 250 ml coolant reservoir with screw cap Cable ties ⚠️ NOTE: This product is intended for race track use only. No type approval (ABE), no warranty.
Chain Hook Aprilia Racing RSV4 Tuono V4
Supports you during rear wheel changes by keeping the chain in position on top of the swingarm and protecting it from dirt. This kit is compatible with: Aprilia RSV4 Aprilia Tuono V4 Kit contents: 1 x PETG chain holder 1 x bolt 1 x washer ⚠️ NOTE: For race track use only. No type approval (ABE), no warranty.
Battery Isolator Switch 12 - 32 V 3 Positions
Battery Disconnect Switch 12 - 32 V 3 positions Recommended for all motorcycles with racing alternator. Comfortable and secure battery disconnection. protect the battery when bike is not in use from discharge. Switch has 3 setting position, removeable in Off-Setting. Needed whole cut for installation 29mm12-36V100A max.
Teflon Washer Kit Rear Linkage Aprilia RSV4 Tuono V4
APRILIA RACING RSV4 TUONO TEFLON WASHER KIT FOR REAR LINKAGEAs known, the rear linkage twists and grinds. This leads to wear and tear and a poorer response of the shock absorber. This kit made of very sturdy teflon washers solves the problem. This kit is compatible for the APRILIA RSV4 and APRILIA TUONO V4 and contains 4 x Teflon washers ATTENTION: Only for the racetrack, no ABE-no guarantee
NGK Iridium CR10EIX No. 6482
NGK Iridium CR10EIX No. 6482 Minimum order quantity: 4 10 mm thread Hex size 16 mm 19 mm thread reach Iridium electrode NGK iridium spark plugs currently represent the highest-quality technical solution available. They feature an iridium alloy on the center electrode, which is laser-welded using a special process. The precious metal iridium is one of the hardest metals in the world, with a melting point of 2450 °C, making it particularly resistant to spark erosion. The use of this metal results in an average doubling of service life compared to conventional nickel spark plugs. ATTENTION: Please only use spark plugs that are explicitly specified by your motorcycle manufacturer in the owner’s manual or clearly approved by the spark plug manufacturer for your specific model. Using incorrect spark plugs may cause damage to your vehicle! ⚠️ ATTENTION: For track use only. No ABE, no warranty.
NGK Iridium CR9EIX No. 3521
NGK Iridium CR9EIX No. 3521 Minimum order quantity: 4 10 mm thread Hex size 16 mm 19 mm thread reach Iridium electrode NGK iridium spark plugs currently represent the highest-quality technical solution available. They feature an iridium alloy on the center electrode, which is laser-welded using a special process. The precious metal iridium is one of the hardest metals in the world, with a melting point of 2450 °C, making it particularly resistant to spark erosion. The use of this metal results in an average doubling of service life compared to conventional nickel spark plugs. ATTENTION: Please only use spark plugs that are explicitly specified by your motorcycle manufacturer in the owner’s manual or clearly approved by the spark plug manufacturer for your specific model. Using incorrect spark plugs may cause damage to your vehicle! ⚠️ ATTENTION: For track use only. No ABE, no warranty.