Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete ready-to-install kit, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier leaning, especially in switchback turnssignificantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:faster downshiftingless instability, more stable rear endmore time and comfort when corneringlater brakingimproved response to throttle commands, faster accelerationThe typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine.In this kit, a rotor with 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g is used. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all, the gyroscopic forces are reduced by the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. An example to illustrate the effects: A standard rotor at 14000 rpm, due to its larger radius, has a rotational speed of 320 km/h, while the kit rotor only reaches 120 km/h.The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 battery are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete ready-to-install kit, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier leaning, especially in switchback turnssignificantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:faster downshiftingless instability, more stable rear endmore time and comfort when corneringlater brakingimproved response to throttle commands, faster accelerationThe typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine.In this kit, a rotor with 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g is used. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all, the gyroscopic forces are reduced by the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. An example to illustrate the effects: A standard rotor at 14000 rpm, due to its larger radius, has a rotational speed of 320 km/h, while the kit rotor only reaches 120 km/h.The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 battery are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation! This is a complete ready-to-install kit, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier leaning, especially in switchback turnssignificantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:faster downshiftingless instability, more stable rear endmore time and comfort when corneringlater brakingimproved response to throttle commands, faster acceleration The typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine. In this kit, a rotor with 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g is used. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all, the gyroscopic forces are reduced by the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. An example to illustrate the effects: A standard rotor at 14000 rpm, due to its larger radius, has a rotational speed of 320 km/h, while the kit rotor only reaches 120 km/h. The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm). Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete ready-to-install kit including a revised new alternator cover, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.This kit includes an elaborately CNC-machined and significantly lighter rotor, including ignition markings.In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense:- Easier leaning, especially in switchback turns- significantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:            * less instability, more stable rear end            * more time and comfort when cornering            * faster downshifting            * later braking possible- improved response to throttle commands, faster acceleration-        The typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine.The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat.Our alternator kits use smaller rotors with particularly effective magnets and a highly efficient wire winding of the coil. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Our regulator features a 20-turn potentiometer for adjusting the maximum output voltage (counter-clockwise increases the output voltage).Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 battery are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also feature a compact rotor, but we use high-efficiency, fine-gauge copper wire for the windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Insbesondere für die besonderen Ansprüche hinsichtlich notwendiger Kapazitätsreserven in Verbindung mit einer Racing Lichtmaschine empfehlen wir den Einsatz einer LiFePo4 Versorgungsbatterie mit mind. 7,5 Ah, besser 10Ah.  When using a racing alternator, we advise against the use of a lithium polymer battery. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop.. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from as low as 4000 rpm.Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Due to the specific requirements and reserve capacity needed when using a racing alternator, we strongly recommend a LiFePO4 battery with at least 7.5 Ah—preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using lithium-polymer batteries in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the OEM flywheel, a proper flywheel puller is required.The puller and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from as low as 4000 rpm.Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Due to the specific requirements and reserve capacity needed when using a racing alternator, we strongly recommend a LiFePO4 battery with at least 7.5 Ah—preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using lithium-polymer batteries in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the OEM flywheel, a proper flywheel puller is required.The puller and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from as low as 4000 rpm.Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Due to the specific requirements and reserve capacity needed when using a racing alternator, we strongly recommend a LiFePO4 battery with at least 7.5 Ah—preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using lithium-polymer batteries in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the OEM flywheel, a proper flywheel puller is required.The puller and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also feature a compact rotor, but we use high-efficiency, fine-gauge copper wire for the windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Insbesondere für die besonderen Ansprüche hinsichtlich notwendiger Kapazitätsreserven in Verbindung mit einer Racing Lichtmaschine empfehlen wir den Einsatz einer LiFePo4 Versorgungsbatterie mit mind. 7,5 Ah, besser 10Ah.  When using a racing alternator, we advise against the use of a lithium polymer battery. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from as low as 4000 rpm.Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Due to the specific requirements and reserve capacity needed when using a racing alternator, we strongly recommend a LiFePO4 battery with at least 7.5 Ah—preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using lithium-polymer batteries in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the OEM flywheel, a proper flywheel puller is required.The puller and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitions Much faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in: quicker downshifts less chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stability more time and confidence when turning in later braking Improved throttle response and faster acceleration A typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 76 mm rotor weighing only 170 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h. The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from as low as 4000 rpm. Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Due to the specific requirements and reserve capacity needed when using a racing alternator, we strongly recommend a LiFePO4 battery with at least 7.5 Ah—preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using lithium-polymer batteries in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the OEM flywheel, a proper flywheel puller is required. The puller and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also feature a compact rotor, but we use high-efficiency, fine-gauge copper wire for the windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. For the special requirements regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with at least 7.5Ah, preferably 10Ah.When using a racing alternator, we advise against the use of a lithium polymer battery. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and suitable LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also feature a compact rotor, but we use high-efficiency, fine-gauge copper wire for the windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Insbesondere für die besonderen Ansprüche hinsichtlich notwendiger Kapazitätsreserven in Verbindung mit einer Racing Lichtmaschine empfehlen wir den Einsatz einer LiFePo4 Versorgungsbatterie mit mind. 7,5 Ah, besser 10Ah.  When using a racing alternator, we advise against the use of a lithium polymer battery. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also feature a compact rotor, but we use high-efficiency, fine-gauge copper wire for the windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Insbesondere für die besonderen Ansprüche hinsichtlich notwendiger Kapazitätsreserven in Verbindung mit einer Racing Lichtmaschine empfehlen wir den Einsatz einer LiFePo4 Versorgungsbatterie mit mind. 7,5 Ah, besser 10Ah.  When using a racing alternator, we advise against the use of a lithium polymer battery. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation! This is a complete ready-to-install kit, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit comes pre-wired with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier leaning, especially in switchback turnsMuch quicker adjustment of engine speed when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:Faster downshiftingLess instability, more stable rear endMore time and comfort when turning inLater brakingImproved response to throttle commands, faster acceleration The typical increase in power is approximately 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine. In this kit, a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g is used. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all, the gyroscopic forces are reduced by the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. An example to illustrate the effects: A standard rotor at 14000 rpm, due to its larger radius, has a rotational speed of 320 km/h, while the kit rotor only reaches 120 km/h. The essential performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to provide strong and consistent power at lower revs, but the clever part is in the reg/rec. Another highlight lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Especially for the special requirements regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a Racing Alternator, we recommend the use of a LiFePo4 supply battery with at least 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah.When using a Racing Alternator, we advise against the use of a Lithium Polymer battery.To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from as low as 4000 rpm.Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Especially for the specific requirements regarding necessary capacity reserves in connection with a racing alternator, we recommend the use of a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5Ah, preferably 10Ah.We advise against the use of a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and suitable LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

The intelligent cooling system for consistent engine temperatures, optimal performance and maximum durability – fully plug-and-play, track-proven and reliable. Benefits Faster warm-up and stable operating temperature No more power loss from driving the water pump Controlled cool-down after shut-off Improved engine reliability in extreme temperatures Reduced system-related wear Key Technical Features Easy installation Complete plug-and-play system – no modifications required, vehicle-specific pre-assembled harness. Automatic temperature control The IEC controller keeps the engine in the optimal temperature range at all times – for consistent performance and reduced wear. Proportionally controlled cooling Water pump and fan continuously adapt their output to actual engine heat – efficient and quiet. Cooling after shut-off Even after switching the engine off, cooling remains active to reliably prevent heat soak. High-quality components Professional wiring harness, robust connectors and temperature-resistant silicone hoses ensure long service life.   IEC Kit Contents – DUCATI Panigale V4 S/SPECIALE/R 2022–2024 Euro 5 1. Electric water pump MT-WP110 2. IEC control unit MT-ECU-DPV4/5 3 Carbon water pump bracket 4 ECU bracket 5. Silicone coolant hoses (inlet) 6 Silicone coolant hoses (outlet) 4. Plug-and-play wiring harness 5. LED status ring Quick Installation Overview 1. Remove fairings and drain the coolant. 2. Remove OEM hoses and install MONZATECH hoses including the pump (observe flow direction). 3. Mount the IEC control unit above the battery and connect all wiring according to the manual. 4. Install the LED status ring on the handlebar and route the cable neatly. 5. Refill the cooling circuit and bleed thoroughly. 6. 📄 Installation manual / Download Quick Specs Vehicle Ducati Panigale V4 S/SPECIALE/R 2022–2024 Euro 5 Control Proportionally controlled for pump and fan – automatic temperature management Installation Plug-and-play, vehicle-specific wiring harness, high-temperature-resistant silicone hoses Maintenance Fully automatic operation, no manual adjustment required Note Never run the pump dry – bleed thoroughly after filling Important: The IEC system continues to operate after engine OFF and prevents overheating by active after-cooling. Compatible with Ducati Panigale V4 S/SPECIALE/R 2022–2024 Euro 5. Brand and model names are used for identification purposes only.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from as low as 4000 rpm.Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Due to the specific requirements and reserve capacity needed when using a racing alternator, we strongly recommend a LiFePO4 battery with at least 7.5 Ah—preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using lithium-polymer batteries in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the OEM flywheel, a proper flywheel puller is required.The puller and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also feature a compact rotor, but we use high-efficiency, fine-gauge copper wire for the windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Insbesondere für die besonderen Ansprüche hinsichtlich notwendiger Kapazitätsreserven in Verbindung mit einer Racing Lichtmaschine empfehlen wir den Einsatz einer LiFePo4 Versorgungsbatterie mit mind. 7,5 Ah, besser 10Ah.  When using a racing alternator, we advise against the use of a lithium polymer battery. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

RACE-USE-ONLY engine temperature management with electric water pump, intelligent ECU control, ATTENTION: operation without the mechanical water pump. Warning (Racing version): This version is explicitly recommended by the manufacturer for use in motorsport racing only (racing use only)! Benefits plug-&-play system – easy to install, all components included in the kit optimal engine temperature control – keeps the engine within a defined temperature window no power losses even under heavy use proportional control of the electric pump and the radiator fan depending on engine heat less system-related wear thanks to more stable thermal management after-run cooling: cooling can continue even with engine OFF (system logic) professional wiring harness + pressure- and temperature-resistant silicone hoses Key Technical Features Control principle The ECU processes coolant temperature data (CAN bus) and sensing inside the pump and controls the pump and fan as required. CAN bus integration Connection at the diagnostic plug; the splitter solution retains the function of the original connector (diagnostics / optional battery maintainer connection). Racing version Designed for operation without the mechanical water pump (the mechanical pump is removed/replaced). Safety / diagnostic indicator LED diagnostics: Green = OK, Red = Warning. Fail-safe behaviour In case of malfunction, the cooling system operates again as in stock configuration (fallback strategy). Important note Never switch the pump on without coolant! The mechanical seal must run lubricated.   IEC Kit Contents – RACING YAMAHA Ténéré 700 22–25 Euro 5 1. Electric water pump MT-WP110 2. IEC control unit / ECU MT-ECU-YT700A 3. Pump bracket 4. ECU bracket 5. Silicone hose (pump inlet) 6. Silicone hose (pump outlet) 7. Mechanical pump cover (mechanical pump cover) 8. Hose clamps 9 Mechanical pump cylinder plug / blanking part Quick Installation Overview 1. Remove fairings/attachments and drain the cooling system. 2. Expose the OEM cooling circuit in the pump area; remove the mechanical water pump according to the workshop manual. Ideally keep OEM parts (restoration option). 3. Racing setup: the mechanical pump is replaced (install kit components in the pump seat) and fit the cover/CNC cap with the O-ring correctly seated. 4. Position the pump on the frame using the brackets, route the silicone hoses, align the hose clamps and tighten. 5. Install the ECU in the battery area using the bracket; connect battery positive/negative; integrate the CAN/KEY wiring according to the manual; connect pump and fan wiring (incl. relay); mount the LED status ring on the handlebar. 6. Fill and bleed the cooling system thoroughly. Never run the pump dry. Then check for leaks and refit the fairings. 7. 📄 Installation manual (PDF) Quick Specs Vehicle RACING Yamaha Ténéré 700 (2022–2025) Euro 5 Kit / SKU MT-K-YT700A/5 Components MT-WP110 + MT-ECU-YT700A + brackets + silicone hoses + hose clamps + pump-area cover Package size 30 × 30 × 15 cm Note Racing use onlyBrand/model names are used for reference only. Important: IEC performance depends on correct hose routing, proper bleeding and correct ECU/CAN/fan wiring. During first start-up, observe the LED diagnostics (Green/Red). Never switch the pump on without coolant. RACE USE ONLY

RACE-USE-ONLY engine temperature management with electric water pump, intelligent ECU control, ATTENTION: operation is without the mechanical water pump. Warning (Racing version): This version is explicitly recommended by the manufacturer for use in motorsport racing only (racing use only)! Benefits plug-&-play system – easy to install, all components included in the kit optimal engine temperature control – keeps the engine within a defined temperature window no power losses even under heavy use proportional control of the electric pump and the radiator fan depending on engine heat less system-related wear thanks to more stable thermal management after-run cooling: cooling can continue even with engine OFF (system logic) professional wiring harness + pressure- and temperature-resistant silicone hoses Key Technical Features Control principle The ECU processes coolant temperature data (CAN bus) and sensing inside the pump and controls the pump and fan as required. CAN bus integration Connection at the diagnostic plug; the splitter solution retains the function of the original connector (diagnostics / optional battery maintainer connection). Racing version Designed for operation without the mechanical water pump (the mechanical pump is removed/replaced). Safety / diagnostic indicator LED diagnostics: Green = OK, Red = Warning. Fail-safe behaviour In case of malfunction, the cooling system operates again as in stock configuration (fallback strategy). Important note Never switch the pump on without coolant! The mechanical seal must run lubricated.   IEC Kit Contents – RACING YAMAHA Ténéré 700 19–22 Euro 4 1. Electric water pump MT-WP110 2. IEC control unit / ECU MT-ECU-YT700A 3. Pump bracket 4. ECU bracket 5. Silicone hose (pump inlet) 6. Silicone hose (pump outlet) 7. Mechanical pump cover (mechanical pump cover) 8. Hose clamps 9 Mechanical pump cylinder plug / blanking part Quick Installation Overview 1. Remove fairings/attachments and drain the cooling system. 2. Expose the OEM cooling circuit in the pump area; remove the mechanical water pump according to the workshop manual. Ideally keep OEM parts (restoration option). 3. Racing setup: the mechanical pump is replaced (install kit components in the pump seat) and fit the cover/CNC cap with the O-ring correctly seated. 4. Position the pump on the frame using the brackets, route the silicone hoses, align the hose clamps and tighten. 5. Install the ECU in the battery area using the bracket; connect battery positive/negative; integrate the CAN/KEY wiring according to the manual; connect pump and fan wiring (incl. relay); mount the LED status ring on the handlebar. 6. Fill and bleed the cooling system thoroughly. Never run the pump dry. Then check for leaks and refit the fairings. 7. 📄 Installation manual (PDF) Quick Specs Vehicle RACING Yamaha Ténéré 700 (2019–2022) Euro 4 Kit / SKU MT-K-YT700A/4 Components MT-WP110 + MT-ECU-YT700A + brackets + silicone hoses + hose clamps + pump-area cover Package size 30 × 30 × 15 cm Note Racing use onlyBrand/model names are used for reference only. Important: IEC performance depends on correct hose routing, proper bleeding and correct ECU/CAN/fan wiring. During first start-up, observe the LED diagnostics (Green/Red). Never switch the pump on without coolant. RACE USE ONLY

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete ready-to-install kit, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense:Easier leaning, especially in switchback turnssignificantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:faster downshiftingless instability, more stable rear endmore time and comfort when corneringlater brakingimproved response to throttle commands, faster accelerationThe typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine.In this kit, a rotor with 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g is used.This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all, the gyroscopic forces are reduced by the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. An example to illustrate the effects: A standard rotor at 14000 rpm, due to its larger radius, has a rotational speed of 320 km/h, while the kit rotor only reaches 120 km/h.The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator.Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 battery are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.

The intelligent cooling system for consistent engine temperatures, optimal performance and maximum durability – fully plug-and-play, track-proven and reliable. Benefits Faster warm-up and stable operating temperature No more power loss from driving the water pump Controlled cool-down after engine shut-off Improved engine reliability in extreme temperatures Reduced system-related wear Key Technical Features Easy installation Complete plug-and-play system – no modifications required, vehicle-specific pre-assembled harness. Automatic temperature control The IEC controller keeps the engine in the optimal temperature range at all times – for consistent performance and reduced wear. Proportionally controlled cooling Water pump and fan continuously adapt their output to actual engine heat – efficient and quiet. Cooling after shut-off Even after switching the engine off, cooling remains active to reliably prevent heat soak. High-quality components Professional wiring harness, robust connectors and temperature-resistant silicone hoses ensure long service life.   IEC Kit Contents – Ducati Panigale V4/S 2025 Euro 5+ 1. Electric water pump MT-WP110 2. IEC control unit MT-ECU-DPV425 3 Carbon water pump bracket 4 ECU bracket 5. Silicone coolant hoses (inlet) 6 Silicone coolant hoses (outlet) 4. Plug-and-play wiring harness 5. LED status ring Quick Installation Overview 1. Remove fairings and drain the coolant. 2. Remove OEM hoses and install MONZATECH hoses including the pump (observe flow direction). 3. Mount the IEC control unit above the battery and connect all wiring according to the manual. 4. Install the LED status ring on the handlebar and route the cable neatly. 5. Refill the cooling circuit and bleed thoroughly. 6. 📄 Installation manual / Download Quick Specs Vehicle Ducati Panigale V4/S 2025 Euro 5+ Control Proportionally controlled for pump and fan – automatic temperature management Installation Plug-and-play, vehicle-specific wiring harness, high-temperature-resistant silicone hoses Maintenance Fully automatic operation, no manual adjustment required Note Never run the pump dry – bleed thoroughly after filling Important: The IEC system continues to operate after engine OFF and prevents overheating by active after-cooling. Compatible with Ducati Panigale V4/S 2025 Euro 5+. Brand and model names are used for identification purposes only.

Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-install race alternator kit consisting of the rotor, stator, mounting plate and the dedicated regulator/rectifier. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a much smaller radius results in drastically reduced gyroscopic forces acting on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in quick chicane transitionsMuch faster engine-speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in:quicker downshiftsless chassis disturbance, improved rear-end stabilitymore time and confidence when turning inlater brakingImproved throttle response and faster accelerationA typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, although this varies slightly from engine to engine.The kit uses a compact 45 mm rotor weighing only 198 g. This not only reduces the effective rotating mass on the crankshaft—since the new rotor is 78% lighter than the OEM unit (198 g vs. 890 g)—but more importantly reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the much smaller radius (45 mm vs. 120 mm). For comparison: at 14,000 rpm the OEM rotor reaches a tangential speed of approx. 320 km/h, while the race rotor spins at only about 120 km/h.The key performance advantage comes from the fact that a lighter rotor with a smaller radius is far easier to accelerate and decelerate.Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but typically with far fewer windings. This results in low and inconsistent output, and they still rely on the OEM regulator—which is not designed to handle surplus power at racing rpm and converts it into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also feature a compact rotor, but we use high-efficiency, fine-gauge copper wire for the windings. This enables us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm).Another key benefit is the intelligent switching system inside our dedicated regulator/rectifier. Once the required voltage is reached, no additional electrical load is generated at the crankshaft. This keeps the regulator significantly cooler and far more reliable. For this reason, never use our race alternator kits with the OEM regulator. Insbesondere für die besonderen Ansprüche hinsichtlich notwendiger Kapazitätsreserven in Verbindung mit einer Racing Lichtmaschine empfehlen wir den Einsatz einer LiFePo4 Versorgungsbatterie mit mind. 7,5 Ah, besser 10Ah.  When using a racing alternator, we advise against the use of a lithium polymer battery. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller.Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.