Aprilia RS660 Racing Alternator Kit 2020+ Please choose your desired variant, as well as the appropriate accessories for installation and successful operation! This is a complete ready-to-install kit, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including its mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter and smaller radius rotor leads to significantly reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier leaning, especially in switchback turnssignificantly faster engine speed adjustment when downshifting in the braking zone, resulting in:faster downshiftingless instability, more stable rear endmore time and comfort when corneringlater brakingimproved response to throttle commands, faster acceleration The typical power increase is about 5-6 horsepower, but varies from engine to engine. In this kit, a rotor with 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g is used. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all, the gyroscopic forces are reduced by the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. An example to illustrate the effects: A standard rotor at 14000 rpm, due to its larger radius, has a rotational speed of 320 km/h, while the kit rotor only reaches 120 km/h. The main performance effects stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, so that uneven and relatively low power is generated. In addition, the original regulator is still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary speeds and can then only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power from lower speeds (approx. 4000 rpm). Another highlight here is the switching system of our special alternator regulator. As soon as the desired voltage is achieved, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This leads to a significantly cooler and more stable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Especially for the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePo4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery when using a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for race generator kits by BDK Race Engineering A BDK race generator kit replaces your motorcycle’s rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a considerably lighter unit designed for racing. The reduction in rotating mass is noticeable – but it requires a clean installation and brings a different operating behaviour with it. Here is what matters most so your kit works reliably from the start. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be performed by an experienced mechanic – someone confident working on both the engine and the electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removing the generator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including retaining the rotor key Removing and refitting the pick-up sensor while preserving its original position Working with thread-locking compound and defined torque values to manufacturer’s specification Cleaning gasket surfaces, correctly seating new gaskets and dowels, sealing the cable grommet – and, on liquid-cooled models, draining and refilling the coolant Properly crimping the spade terminals and populating the connector block Wiring and fusing the regulator/rectifier into the electrical system, plus taking AC and DC measurements with a multimeter What matters during installation Thread lock is mandatory: All bolts are fitted with thread-locking compound and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have occurred where this was omitted – it is the most common avoidable mistake. Use only the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be run with a race generator. The regulator body must be properly earthed at all times. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface in the airflow, away from exhaust heat. Bolt one mounting point and secure the other with a cable tie. Mind the cable management: Route and secure the stator and pick-up wiring exactly as it left the factory, using the original clamps – free of chafing, with sufficient slack, never trapped. A chafed wire means a short to earth. Connections: Every spade terminal must audibly click into place. The order of the three stator wires is irrelevant – a secure fit is what counts. Fuse and switched supply: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on the kit) belongs in the positive lead. The signal wire goes to a switched 12 V positive supply so there is no drain when the bike is off. Follow the original instructions: Sequence, torque figures, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and covered in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes in operation A race generator deliberately produces less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only begins charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; running for longer periods below that will drain the battery. Three rules follow from this: Always start with a fully charged battery, use at least 7.8 Ah, better 10.4 Ah LiFePO4 battery. After every session, pull the fuse at the regulator, isolate the 12 V supply or use a battery isolator switch – otherwise the battery may be deeply discharged. Never start or run the bike with the battery or the regulator disconnected. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that the system is charging – a useful quick check before and after a session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to carry out the basic checks independently with a multimeter: fuse and switched supply, continuity between the stator pins (between any two yes, to earth no), the AC voltage across the stator pins at a fixed engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This narrows down almost any irregularity within minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a spade terminal that never clicked home. The specific target values are listed in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you are unsure That is perfectly fine – in that case, have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have technical questions about your kit, we are happy to help; just get in touch. Please note: This is racing equipment, intended exclusively for racing and track use and not approved for use on public roads. It has been designed with performance in mind over longevity, and – as is customary for racing parts – the manufacturer gives no warranty, guarantee or liability for these items, in particular none for consequential damage. Your statutory rights towards us as the seller remain unaffected. The original BDK Race Engineering installation instructions supplied with the product are authoritative for the installation itself.
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PLN 6,298.50