BMW S/M1000RR K67 Racing Alternator Kit 2020+ – without comfort relay, without GB Racing protection cover is the version of the BDK Racing alternator kit for the BMW S1000RR / M1000R/RR (2020–2026): lightweight rotor for reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft and faster downshifting, without comfort relay (consumers are disconnected) – for track use and racing conversion. Suitable for BMW S1000RR / M1000R/RR 2020–2026. Each unit includes rotor, stator with mounting plate and regulator, all connectors pre-fitted. (RG-BMW-M-S1000RR-2020+.1, M 1000 RR, M-1000RR, S 1000 RR, S-1000RR, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Honda CBR1000RR Racing Alternator Kit 2020+ is the ready-to-fit BDK racing alternator kit for the HONDA CBR1000RR (2020–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster rev-matching on downshifts and easier direction changes through chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits HONDA CBR1000RR 2020–2026. With each Honda CBR1000RR Racing Alternator Kit 2020+ you receive a rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-wired; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-HON-CBR1000RR-2020+, CBR 1000 RR, CBR-1000RR, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Aprilia RS660 Racing Alternator Kit 2020+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the APRILIA RS 660 / APRILIA Tuono 660 (2020–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster rev-matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – for the track and racing conversions. Suitable for APRILIA RS 660 2020–2026, Aprilia Tuono 660 2021–2026. With each Aprilia RS660 Racing Alternator Kit 2020+ you receive a rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-APR-RS660-2020+, A-RS660-RG-20, RS-660, BDK Racing Lima) Please select your preferred variant, as well as the matching accessories for installation and successful operation! This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius results in considerably reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster engine speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in: faster downshifting less instability, more stable rear end more time and confidence when turning in later braking improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 hp, but this varies from engine to engine. This kit uses a rotor with a 148mm diameter and a weight of 671g. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor has a significantly lower weight than the original rotor, but above all reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the significantly smaller radius. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is considerably easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low power output. In addition, the original regulator continues to be used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary engine speeds and can only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent output from lower engine speeds (approx. 4000 rpm). Another highlight lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly for the specific requirements regarding necessary capacity reserves in connection with a racing alternator, we recommend the use of a LiFePo4 supply battery with at least 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in conjunction with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Aprilia RSV4 1100 Racing Alternator Kit 2021+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the APRILIA RSV4 1100 (2021–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster rev-matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – for the track and racing conversions. Suitable for APRILIA RSV4 1100 2021–2026. With each Aprilia RSV4 1100 Racing Alternator Kit 2021+ you receive a rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-APR-RSV4-2021+, A-RSV4-RG-21+, BDK Racing Lima) Please select your preferred variant, as well as the matching accessories for installation and successful operation! This is a complete, ready-to-install kit including a reworked new alternator cover, consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil with the associated mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-fitted with all necessary connectors. This kit includes an elaborately CNC-machined and significantly lighter rotor including ignition timing marks.In short: the significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius results in considerably reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense:- Easier tipping into corners, especially in chicanes- Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in:* less instability, more stable rear end* more time and comfort when turning in* faster downshifting* later braking possible- improved response to throttle input, faster acceleration- The typical power gain is approximately 5-6 hp, but this varies from engine to engine. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor, which also has a significantly smaller radius, is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low power output. In addition, the original regulator continues to be used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary engine speeds and can only convert this into harmful heat. Our alternator kits use smaller rotors with particularly effective magnets and a particularly efficient wire winding for the coil. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent output from lower engine speeds (approx. 4000 rpm). Another highlight lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Our regulator features a 20-turn potentiometer for adjusting the maximum output voltage (turning counter-clockwise increases the output voltage). Particularly for the specific requirements regarding necessary capacity reserves in connection with a racing alternator, we recommend the use of a LiFePo4 supply battery with at least 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Yamaha R1 Racing Alternator Kit 2015+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the YAMAHA YZF-R1 / R1 998 (2015–2025): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits YAMAHA YZF-R1 / R1 998 2015–2025. Each Yamaha R1 Racing Alternator Kit 2015+ unit includes rotor, stator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-YAM-R1-2015+, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 106mm diameter and a weight of only 362g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is less than half the weight of the original rotor, but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 106mm instead of 121mm. Here is an example to illustrate the effect: at 14,000 rpm, a standard rotor reaches a rotational speed of 320 km/h due to its larger radius, whereas the kit rotor reaches only 282 km/h. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. A puller and LiFePO4 battery are available here in the shop.. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

KTM 790/890 Racing Alternator Kit is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the KTM Duke 790 / KTM Duke 890 (2018–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, reducing gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, allowing faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits KTM Duke 790 2018–2020, KTM Duke 790 2023–2026, KTM Duke 890 2022–2026. Each KTM 790/890 Racing Alternator Kit includes rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and alternator regulator, all connectors pre-wired; optionally available with comfort relay. (RG-KTM-790-890, KTM790, KTM-790, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 80mm diameter and a weight of only 294g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 75% lighter than the original rotor (1,210g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 80mm instead of 120mm. Here is an example to illustrate the effect: at 14,000 rpm, a standard rotor reaches a rotational speed of 320 km/h due to its larger radius, whereas the kit rotor reaches only 209 km/h. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Suzuki GSX-R 1000 K9-K15 Racing Alternator Kit 2009+ is the ready-to-fit BDK racing alternator kit for the SUZUKI GSX-R 1000 (2009–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in less gyroscopic force on the crankshaft, faster rev-matching on downshifts and easier direction changes through chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Suitable for SUZUKI GSX-R 1000 2009–2026. With each unit of the Suzuki GSX-R 1000 K9-K15 Racing Alternator Kit 2009+ you receive a rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optional comfort relay available. (RG-SUZ-GSXR1000-K9-K16-2009+, R1000, R-1000, BDK Racing Lima) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 164g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is at least 72% lighter than the original rotor (600g+), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. Here is an example to illustrate the effect: at 14,000 rpm, a standard rotor reaches a rotational speed of 320 km/h due to its larger radius, whereas the kit rotor reaches only 120 km/h. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Suzuki GSX-R 600/750 K6+ Racing Alternator Kit 06+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the SUZUKI GSX-R 600 / 750 (2006–2024): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster rev-matching on downshifts and easier flicking through chicanes – ideal for track use and racing conversions. Fits SUZUKI GSX-R 600 / 750 2006–2024. With each unit of the Suzuki GSX-R 600/750 K6+ Racing Alternator Kit 06+ you receive a rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optional comfort relay available. (RG-SUZ-GSXR600-750-K6+, R600, R-600, BDK Racing Lima) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 85mm diameter and a weight of only 316g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 60% lighter than the original rotor (756g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 85mm instead of 120mm. Here is an example to illustrate the effect: at 14,000 rpm, a standard rotor reaches a rotational speed of 320 km/h due to its larger radius, whereas the kit rotor reaches only 225 km/h. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Yamaha R6 Racing Alternator Kit 06-22 is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the YAMAHA YZF-R6 / R6 599 (2006–2022): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits YAMAHA YZF-R6 / R6 599 2006–2022. Each Yamaha R6 Racing Alternator Kit 06-22 unit includes rotor, stator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-YAM-R6-06-22, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 68mm diameter and a weight of only 276g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 71% lighter than the original rotor (944g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 68mm instead of 128mm. Here is an example to illustrate the effect: at 14,000 rpm, a standard rotor reaches a rotational speed of 338 km/h due to its larger radius, whereas the kit rotor reaches only 180 km/h. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Kawasaki ZX-10R Racing Alternator Kit 11-15 is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-10R 998 (2011–2015): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, reducing gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, allowing faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-10R 998 2011–2015. Each Kawasaki ZX-10R Racing Alternator Kit 11-15 includes rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and alternator regulator, all connectors pre-wired; optionally available with comfort relay. (RG-KAW-ZX-10R-11-15, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 76mm diameter and a weight of only 170g including the starter clutch. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is over 70% lighter than the original rotor, but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 76mm instead of 120mm. Here is an example to illustrate the effect: at 14,000 rpm, a standard rotor reaches a rotational speed of 320 km/h due to its larger radius, whereas the kit rotor reaches only 201 km/h. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Kawasaki ZX-10R Racing Alternator Kit 2016+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-10R 998 (2016–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, reducing gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, allowing faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-10R 998 2016–2026. Each Kawasaki ZX-10R Racing Alternator Kit 2016+ includes rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and alternator regulator, all connectors pre-wired; optionally available with comfort relay. (RG-KAW-ZX10R-2016+, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a diameter of 76mm and a weight of only 170g including the starter clutch. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is over 70% lighter than the original rotor, but above all reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 76mm instead of 120mm. Here is an example to illustrate the effect. Due to its larger radius of 120mm, a standard rotor reaches a rotational speed of 320 km/h at 14,000 rpm, whereas the kit rotor reaches only 201 km/h. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

TRIUMPH 675 Racing Alternator Kit 2013+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the TRIUMPH 675 (R) (2013–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits TRIUMPH 675 (R) 2013–2026. Each TRIUMPH 675 Racing Alternator Kit 2013+ unit includes rotor, stator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-TRI-675-2013+, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 377g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 69% lighter than the original rotor (1,235g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Given the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5Ah, ideally 10Ah.We advise against using a lithium-polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel you will need a puller. Pullers and suitable LiFePO4 batteries are available here in our shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Yamaha MT07 Racing Alternator Kit 2021+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the YAMAHA FZ-07 / MT-07 / R-7 698 (2021–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits YAMAHA FZ-07 / MT-07 / R-7 698 2021–2026. Each Yamaha MT07 Racing Alternator Kit 2021+ unit includes rotor, stator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-YAM-MT07-2021+, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Yamaha MT07 FZ07 Racing Alternator Kit 2014+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the YAMAHA FZ-07 / MT-07 / R-7 698 (2014–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, reducing gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, allowing faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits YAMAHA FZ-07 / MT-07 / R-7 698 2014–2026. Each Yamaha MT07 FZ07 Racing Alternator Kit 2014+ includes rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and alternator regulator, all connectors pre-wired; optionally available with comfort relay. (RG-YAM-MT07-FZ7-2014+, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Yamaha R7 Racing Alternator Kit 2021+ is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the YAMAHA FZ-07 / MT-07 / R-7 698 (2021–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits YAMAHA FZ-07 / MT-07 / R-7 698 2021–2026. Each Yamaha R7 Racing Alternator Kit 2021+ unit includes rotor, stator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-YAM-R7, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your desired variant, along with the matching accessories for installation and successful operation! This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: the significantly lighter, smaller-radius rotor results in considerably reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster engine speed matching when downshifting under braking, resulting in: faster downshifting less instability, more stable rear end more time and confidence when turning in later braking improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 hp, but this varies from engine to engine. This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all reduces gyroscopic forces thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is considerably easier to accelerate and decelerate. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs (approx. 4,000 rpm) onwards. Another highlight lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Given the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, ideally 10 Ah.We advise against using a lithium-polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator.To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

TRIUMPH 675 Racing Alternator Kit -2012 is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the TRIUMPH 675 (R) (2006–2012): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits TRIUMPH 675 (R) 2006–2012. With each TRIUMPH 675 Racing Alternator Kit -2012 you receive a rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-wired; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-TRI-675-2012, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 377g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 69% lighter than the original rotor (1,235g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Given the particular demands regarding necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5Ah, ideally 10Ah.We advise against using a lithium-polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel you will need a puller. Pullers and suitable LiFePO4 batteries are available here in our shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Monzatech E-Water Pump Kit Panigale V4 22-24 Euro 5 is the vehicle-specific Monzatech plug-and-play kit for the electric water pump of the DUCATI V4 Panigale 1103 (2022–2024, Euro 5): the IEC control unit regulates the pump and radiator fan in proportion to engine temperature, brings the engine up to operating temperature faster and keeps it there, provides controlled cooling after switch-off, and eliminates the power loss caused by the mechanical water pump – built for track use. Suitable for DUCATI V4 Panigale 1103 2022–2024. For each unit of the Monzatech E-Water Pump Kit Panigale V4 22-24 Euro 5, you receive the complete kit with electric water pump, IEC control unit, vehicle-specific wiring harness and pressure- and temperature-resistant silicone hoses. (MT-K-DPV4/5_PAN_V4_22-24, MT-K-DPV4/5, Monzatech water pump, electric water pump DUCATI) The intelligent cooling system for consistent engine temperatures, optimal performance and maximum durability – fully plug-and-play, track-proven and reliable. Benefits Faster warm-up and stable operating temperature No more power loss from driving the water pump Controlled cool-down after shut-off Improved engine reliability in extreme temperatures Reduced system-related wear Key Technical Features Easy installation Complete plug-and-play system – no modifications required, vehicle-specific pre-assembled harness. Automatic temperature control The IEC controller keeps the engine in the optimal temperature range at all times – for consistent performance and reduced wear. Proportionally controlled cooling Water pump and fan continuously adapt their output to actual engine heat – efficient and quiet. Cooling after shut-off Even after switching the engine off, cooling remains active to reliably prevent heat soak. High-quality components Professional wiring harness, robust connectors and temperature-resistant silicone hoses ensure long service life.   IEC Kit Contents – DUCATI Panigale V4 S/SPECIALE/R 2022–2024 Euro 5 1. Electric water pump MT-WP110 2. IEC control unit MT-ECU-DPV4/5 3 Carbon water pump bracket 4 ECU bracket 5. Silicone coolant hoses (inlet) 6 Silicone coolant hoses (outlet) 4. Plug-and-play wiring harness 5. LED status ring Quick Installation Overview 1. Remove fairings and drain the coolant. 2. Remove OEM hoses and install MONZATECH hoses including the pump (observe flow direction). 3. Mount the IEC control unit above the battery and connect all wiring according to the manual. 4. Install the LED status ring on the handlebar and route the cable neatly. 5. Refill the cooling circuit and bleed thoroughly. 6. 📄 Installation manual / Download Quick Specs Vehicle Ducati Panigale V4 S/SPECIALE/R 2022–2024 Euro 5 Control Proportionally controlled for pump and fan – automatic temperature management Installation Plug-and-play, vehicle-specific wiring harness, high-temperature-resistant silicone hoses Maintenance Fully automatic operation, no manual adjustment required Note Never run the pump dry – bleed thoroughly after filling Important: The IEC system continues to operate after engine OFF and prevents overheating by active after-cooling. Compatible with Ducati Panigale V4 S/SPECIALE/R 2022–2024 Euro 5. Brand and model names are used for identification purposes only.

MV Agusta F3 Brutale Rivale 675 - 800 Racing Alternator Kit is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the MV AGUSTA F3 675 / F3 800 (2012–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, reducing gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, allowing faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits MV AGUSTA F3 675 / F3 800 2012–2026. Each MV Agusta F3 Brutale Rivale 675 - 800 Racing Alternator Kit includes rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and alternator regulator, all connectors pre-wired; optionally available with comfort relay. (RG-MVA-675-800, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Yamaha R6 Racing Alternator Kit 03-05 is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the YAMAHA YZF-R6 / R6 599 (2003–2005): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster engine speed matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits YAMAHA YZF-R6 / R6 599 2003–2005. Each Yamaha R6 Racing Alternator Kit 03-05 unit includes rotor, stator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-YAM-R6-03-05, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 198g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 78% lighter than the original rotor (890g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Monzatech E-Water Pump Kit Yamaha Ténéré T700 22-25 Euro 5 Racing is the vehicle-specific Monzatech plug-&-play kit for the electric water pump of the YAMAHA TÉNÉRÉ T700 (2022–2025, Euro 5): operation without a mechanical water pump, the IEC control unit regulates the pump and radiator fan via its own temperature sensor in proportion to engine heat, keeps the engine within a defined temperature window, cools it down after switching off, and eliminates the power loss of the standard pump – Racing version, recommended by the manufacturer exclusively for motorsport use. Fits YAMAHA TÉNÉRÉ T700 2022–2025. With each Monzatech E-Water Pump Kit Yamaha Ténéré T700 22-25 Euro 5 Racing unit, you receive the complete kit including the electric water pump, IEC control unit, vehicle-specific wiring harness and pressure- and temperature-resistant silicone hoses. (MT-K-YT700A/5_22-25_RACE, MT-K-YT700A/5, T 700, T-700, Monzatech water pump, electric water pump YAMAHA) RACE-USE-ONLY engine temperature management with electric water pump, intelligent ECU control, ATTENTION: operation without the mechanical water pump. Warning (Racing version): This version is explicitly recommended by the manufacturer for use in motorsport racing only (racing use only)! Benefits plug-&-play system – easy to install, all components included in the kit optimal engine temperature control – keeps the engine within a defined temperature window no power losses even under heavy use proportional control of the electric pump and the radiator fan depending on engine heat less system-related wear thanks to more stable thermal management after-run cooling: cooling can continue even with engine OFF (system logic) professional wiring harness + pressure- and temperature-resistant silicone hoses Key Technical Features Control principle The ECU processes coolant temperature data (CAN bus) and sensing inside the pump and controls the pump and fan as required. CAN bus integration Connection at the diagnostic plug; the splitter solution retains the function of the original connector (diagnostics / optional battery maintainer connection). Racing version Designed for operation without the mechanical water pump (the mechanical pump is removed/replaced). Safety / diagnostic indicator LED diagnostics: Green = OK, Red = Warning. Fail-safe behaviour In case of malfunction, the cooling system operates again as in stock configuration (fallback strategy). Important note Never switch the pump on without coolant! The mechanical seal must run lubricated.   IEC Kit Contents – RACING YAMAHA Ténéré 700 22–25 Euro 5 1. Electric water pump MT-WP110 2. IEC control unit / ECU MT-ECU-YT700A 3. Pump bracket 4. ECU bracket 5. Silicone hose (pump inlet) 6. Silicone hose (pump outlet) 7. Mechanical pump cover (mechanical pump cover) 8. Hose clamps 9 Mechanical pump cylinder plug / blanking part Quick Installation Overview 1. Remove fairings/attachments and drain the cooling system. 2. Expose the OEM cooling circuit in the pump area; remove the mechanical water pump according to the workshop manual. Ideally keep OEM parts (restoration option). 3. Racing setup: the mechanical pump is replaced (install kit components in the pump seat) and fit the cover/CNC cap with the O-ring correctly seated. 4. Position the pump on the frame using the brackets, route the silicone hoses, align the hose clamps and tighten. 5. Install the ECU in the battery area using the bracket; connect battery positive/negative; integrate the CAN/KEY wiring according to the manual; connect pump and fan wiring (incl. relay); mount the LED status ring on the handlebar. 6. Fill and bleed the cooling system thoroughly. Never run the pump dry. Then check for leaks and refit the fairings. 7. 📄 Installation manual (PDF) Quick Specs Vehicle RACING Yamaha Ténéré 700 (2022–2025) Euro 5 Kit / SKU MT-K-YT700A/5 Components MT-WP110 + MT-ECU-YT700A + brackets + silicone hoses + hose clamps + pump-area cover Package size 30 × 30 × 15 cm Note Racing use onlyBrand/model names are used for reference only. Important: IEC performance depends on correct hose routing, proper bleeding and correct ECU/CAN/fan wiring. During first start-up, observe the LED diagnostics (Green/Red). Never switch the pump on without coolant. RACE USE ONLY

Monzatech E-Water Pump Kit Yamaha Ténéré T700 19-22 Euro 4 Racing is the vehicle-specific Monzatech plug-&-play kit for the electric water pump on the YAMAHA TÉNÉRÉ T700 (2019–2022, Euro 4): operation without a mechanical water pump, with the IEC control unit regulating the pump and radiator fan via its own temperature sensor proportionally to engine heat, keeping the engine within a defined temperature range, providing after-cooling once switched off, and eliminating the power loss of the standard pump – Racing version, recommended by the manufacturer exclusively for motorsport use. Fits YAMAHA TÉNÉRÉ T700 2019–2022. With each unit of the Monzatech E-Water Pump Kit Yamaha Ténéré T700 19-22 Euro 4 Racing, you receive the complete kit including electric water pump, IEC control unit, vehicle-specific wiring harness and pressure- and temperature-resistant silicone hoses. (MT-K-YT700A/4_19-22_RACE, MT-K-YT700A/5, T 700, T-700, Monzatech water pump, electric water pump YAMAHA) RACE-USE-ONLY engine temperature management with electric water pump, intelligent ECU control, ATTENTION: operation is without the mechanical water pump. Warning (Racing version): This version is explicitly recommended by the manufacturer for use in motorsport racing only (racing use only)! Benefits plug-&-play system – easy to install, all components included in the kit optimal engine temperature control – keeps the engine within a defined temperature window no power losses even under heavy use proportional control of the electric pump and the radiator fan depending on engine heat less system-related wear thanks to more stable thermal management after-run cooling: cooling can continue even with engine OFF (system logic) professional wiring harness + pressure- and temperature-resistant silicone hoses Key Technical Features Control principle The ECU processes coolant temperature data (CAN bus) and sensing inside the pump and controls the pump and fan as required. CAN bus integration Connection at the diagnostic plug; the splitter solution retains the function of the original connector (diagnostics / optional battery maintainer connection). Racing version Designed for operation without the mechanical water pump (the mechanical pump is removed/replaced). Safety / diagnostic indicator LED diagnostics: Green = OK, Red = Warning. Fail-safe behaviour In case of malfunction, the cooling system operates again as in stock configuration (fallback strategy). Important note Never switch the pump on without coolant! The mechanical seal must run lubricated.   IEC Kit Contents – RACING YAMAHA Ténéré 700 19–22 Euro 4 1. Electric water pump MT-WP110 2. IEC control unit / ECU MT-ECU-YT700A 3. Pump bracket 4. ECU bracket 5. Silicone hose (pump inlet) 6. Silicone hose (pump outlet) 7. Mechanical pump cover (mechanical pump cover) 8. Hose clamps 9 Mechanical pump cylinder plug / blanking part Quick Installation Overview 1. Remove fairings/attachments and drain the cooling system. 2. Expose the OEM cooling circuit in the pump area; remove the mechanical water pump according to the workshop manual. Ideally keep OEM parts (restoration option). 3. Racing setup: the mechanical pump is replaced (install kit components in the pump seat) and fit the cover/CNC cap with the O-ring correctly seated. 4. Position the pump on the frame using the brackets, route the silicone hoses, align the hose clamps and tighten. 5. Install the ECU in the battery area using the bracket; connect battery positive/negative; integrate the CAN/KEY wiring according to the manual; connect pump and fan wiring (incl. relay); mount the LED status ring on the handlebar. 6. Fill and bleed the cooling system thoroughly. Never run the pump dry. Then check for leaks and refit the fairings. 7. 📄 Installation manual (PDF) Quick Specs Vehicle RACING Yamaha Ténéré 700 (2019–2022) Euro 4 Kit / SKU MT-K-YT700A/4 Components MT-WP110 + MT-ECU-YT700A + brackets + silicone hoses + hose clamps + pump-area cover Package size 30 × 30 × 15 cm Note Racing use onlyBrand/model names are used for reference only. Important: IEC performance depends on correct hose routing, proper bleeding and correct ECU/CAN/fan wiring. During first start-up, observe the LED diagnostics (Green/Red). Never switch the pump on without coolant. RACE USE ONLY

Aprilia RSV4 1000/1100 Racing Alternator Kit 2009-2020 is the ready-to-fit BDK Racing alternator kit for the APRILIA RSV4 1000 / APRILIA Tuono V4 1000 (2009–2020): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster rev-matching on downshifts and easier direction changes in chicanes – for the track and racing conversions. Suitable for APRILIA RSV4 1000 2009–2020, APRILIA Tuono V4 1000 2011–2014. For each Aprilia RSV4 1000/1100 racing alternator kit 2009-2020 unit, you receive the rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-fitted; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-APR-RSV4, ARG1-11, BDK Racing Lima) Please select your preferred variant, as well as the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-configured with all the necessary connectors.In short: the significantly lighter rotor, with its smaller radius, leads to considerably reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier tip-in, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved response to throttle input, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5–6 hp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of just 198g. This not only reduces the effective weight of the crankshaft, as the new rotor is over 67% lighter than the original rotor, but above all reduces gyroscopic forces due to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. Here's an example to illustrate the effect: a standard rotor at 14,000 rpm reaches a rotational speed of 320 km/h due to its larger radius, whereas the kit rotor reaches just 120 km/h. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a considerably smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low power output. In addition, the original regulator is typically still used, which is not designed for excess power at the necessary rpm ranges and can only convert this excess into harmful heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use particularly efficient, fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong and consistent power output starting from lower rpm (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another key feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a considerably cooler and more durable regulator. Therefore, never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.

Monzatech E-Water Pump Kit Panigale V4/S 2025 Euro 5+ is the vehicle-specific Monzatech plug-and-play kit for the electric water pump of the DUCATI V4 Panigale 1103 (2024–2026, Euro 5+): the IEC control unit regulates the pump and radiator fan in proportion to engine temperature, brings the engine up to operating temperature faster and keeps it there, provides controlled cooling after switch-off, and eliminates the power loss caused by the mechanical water pump – built for track use. Suitable for DUCATI V4 Panigale 1103 2024–2026. For each unit of the Monzatech E-Water Pump Kit Panigale V4/S 2025 Euro 5+, you receive the complete kit with electric water pump, IEC control unit, vehicle-specific wiring harness and pressure- and temperature-resistant silicone hoses. (MT-K-DPV425_PAN_V4_2025+, MT-K-DPV425, S2025, S-2025, Monzatech water pump, electric water pump DUCATI) The intelligent cooling system for consistent engine temperatures, optimal performance and maximum durability – fully plug-and-play, track-proven and reliable. Benefits Faster warm-up and stable operating temperature No more power loss from driving the water pump Controlled cool-down after engine shut-off Improved engine reliability in extreme temperatures Reduced system-related wear Key Technical Features Easy installation Complete plug-and-play system – no modifications required, vehicle-specific pre-assembled harness. Automatic temperature control The IEC controller keeps the engine in the optimal temperature range at all times – for consistent performance and reduced wear. Proportionally controlled cooling Water pump and fan continuously adapt their output to actual engine heat – efficient and quiet. Cooling after shut-off Even after switching the engine off, cooling remains active to reliably prevent heat soak. High-quality components Professional wiring harness, robust connectors and temperature-resistant silicone hoses ensure long service life.   IEC Kit Contents – Ducati Panigale V4/S 2025 Euro 5+ 1. Electric water pump MT-WP110 2. IEC control unit MT-ECU-DPV425 3 Carbon water pump bracket 4 ECU bracket 5. Silicone coolant hoses (inlet) 6 Silicone coolant hoses (outlet) 4. Plug-and-play wiring harness 5. LED status ring Quick Installation Overview 1. Remove fairings and drain the coolant. 2. Remove OEM hoses and install MONZATECH hoses including the pump (observe flow direction). 3. Mount the IEC control unit above the battery and connect all wiring according to the manual. 4. Install the LED status ring on the handlebar and route the cable neatly. 5. Refill the cooling circuit and bleed thoroughly. 6. 📄 Installation manual / Download Quick Specs Vehicle Ducati Panigale V4/S 2025 Euro 5+ Control Proportionally controlled for pump and fan – automatic temperature management Installation Plug-and-play, vehicle-specific wiring harness, high-temperature-resistant silicone hoses Maintenance Fully automatic operation, no manual adjustment required Note Never run the pump dry – bleed thoroughly after filling Important: The IEC system continues to operate after engine OFF and prevents overheating by active after-cooling. Compatible with Ducati Panigale V4/S 2025 Euro 5+. Brand and model names are used for identification purposes only.

TRIUMPH 765 Racing Alternator Kit 2017+ is the ready-to-fit BDK racing alternator kit for the TRIUMPH 765 (R/RS/Moto2) (2017–2026): a significantly lighter rotor with a smaller radius, resulting in reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft, faster rev-matching on downshifts and easier direction changes through chicanes – built for the racetrack and racing conversions. Fits TRIUMPH 765 (R/RS/Moto2) 2017–2026. With each TRIUMPH 765 Racing Alternator Kit 2017+ you receive a rotor, alternator coil with mounting plate and voltage regulator, all connectors pre-wired; optionally with comfort relay. (RG-TRI-765-2017+, BDK Racing Alternator) Please select your preferred variant and the matching accessories for installation and successful operation!This is a complete, ready-to-fit kit consisting of the rotor, the alternator coil including the corresponding mounting plate, and the alternator regulator. The kit is supplied pre-assembled with all necessary connectors. In short: The significantly lighter rotor, with a smaller radius, results in substantially reduced gyroscopic forces on the crankshaft. The effect is immense: Easier direction changes, especially in chicanes Significantly faster matching of engine speed when downshifting under braking, resulting in: Faster downshifting Less instability, a more stable rear end More time and comfort when turning in Later braking Improved throttle response, faster acceleration The typical power gain is around 5-6 bhp, though this varies from engine to engine.This kit uses a rotor with a 45mm diameter and a weight of only 377g. This not only reduces the effective weight on the crankshaft, as the new rotor is 69% lighter than the original rotor (1,235g), but above all the gyroscopic forces are reduced thanks to the significantly smaller radius of 45mm instead of 120mm. The main performance benefits stem from the fact that a lighter rotor with a significantly smaller radius is much easier to accelerate and decelerate. Most racing alternators also use a smaller rotor, but compared to ours, usually with significantly fewer windings in the coil, resulting in uneven and relatively low output. In addition, the original regulator is often retained, which is not designed for the excess power generated at the required revs and can only convert this into damaging heat. Our alternator kits also use a small rotor, but we use a particularly efficient and fine wire for our windings. This allows us to deliver strong, consistent power from lower revs onwards (approx. 4,000 rpm). Another clever feature lies in the switching system of our special alternator regulator. Once the desired voltage is reached, no further electricity is generated at the crankshaft. This results in a significantly cooler and more durable regulator. For this reason, you should never use our alternator kits with the original regulator. Particularly in view of the specific requirements regarding the necessary capacity reserves in conjunction with a racing alternator, we recommend using a LiFePO4 supply battery with a minimum of 7.5 Ah, preferably 10 Ah. We advise against using a lithium polymer battery in combination with a racing alternator. To remove the original flywheel, you will need a puller. Pullers and LiFePO4 batteries are available here in the shop. Important installation notice for racing alternator kits from BDK Race Engineering A BDK racing alternator kit replaces your motorcycle's rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier with a significantly lighter unit designed for racing use. This provides a noticeable reduction in rotating mass – but requires careful installation and involves changed operating behaviour. To ensure your kit works reliably from the outset, here is an overview of the most important points. Who should carry out the installation? Installation should be carried out by an experienced mechanic – someone who is confident working on the engine and the vehicle's electrical system. Specifically, this includes: Removal of the alternator cover, flywheel/rotor, starter clutch and stator, including securing the Woodruff key (rotor key) Removal and refitting of the ignition pulse sensor (pickup), maintaining the original installation position Working with thread locker and specified torque values according to the manufacturer's instructions Cleaning sealing surfaces, correctly fitting new gaskets and locating dowels, and sealing the cable grommet Professional crimping of the spade connectors and fitting of the connector housing Connection and fusing of the regulator/rectifier in the vehicle electrical system, plus measurements with a multimeter in AC and DC What matters during installation Thread locker is mandatory: All screws must be fitted with thread locker and tightened to the specified torque. Failures have already occurred due to missing thread locker – this is the most common avoidable mistake. Only use the supplied regulator: The standard regulator must never be used with a racing alternator. The regulator body must have a permanently clean earth connection. Regulator mounting: on a flat metal surface exposed to airflow, away from exhaust heat. One mounting point bolted, the second secured with a cable tie. Pay attention to cable management: Route the stator and pickup wires and secure them with the original clamps as done from the factory – free of chafing, with sufficient movement clearance, and not pinched. A chafed cable causes a short to earth. Connectors: Every spade connector must click audibly into place. The order of the three stator wires is not important – a secure fit is what counts. Fusing and switched positive: An intact fuse (30 or 35 A depending on kit) must be fitted in the positive line. The signal wire must be connected to a switched 12V positive supply so that no standing current flows when parked. Follow the original installation instructions: Sequence, torque values, gasket part numbers and cable lengths are model-specific and are detailed in the enclosed BDK instructions. What changes during operation A racing alternator deliberately delivers less charging output than the standard system. Depending on the kit, it only starts charging from around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm; prolonged running at lower engine speeds will discharge the battery. This results in three fixed rules: Always start with a fully charged battery, using at least a 7.8 Ah LiFePO4 battery, ideally 10.4 Ah. After each session, remove the fuse at the regulator, disconnect the 12V supply, or use a battery disconnect switch – otherwise deep discharge may occur. Never start or run the bike with the battery disconnected or the regulator unplugged. This will damage the alternator. The green LED on the regulator indicates that charging is taking place – a useful quick check before and after each session. Diagnostics The installer should be able to independently check with a multimeter: the fuse and switched positive supply, continuity between the stator pins (present between each other, none to earth), the AC voltage between the stator pins at a constant engine speed, and the charging voltage at the battery. This allows almost all faults to be narrowed down within a few minutes – often to something minor such as a blown fuse or a connector that hasn't clicked into place. The specific target values can be found in the troubleshooting section of the enclosed instructions. If you're unsure That's not a problem – in this case, please have the installation carried out by a specialist workshop or an experienced racing mechanic. If you have any technical questions about your kit, we'll be happy to help; just get in touch with us. Please note: This is racing equipment intended exclusively for competition and track use and is not approved for use on public roads. In its development, performance takes priority over durability; as is common for racing parts, the manufacturer provides no warranty or liability for these parts, in particular not for consequential damage. Your statutory rights against us as the seller remain unaffected. The original installation instructions from BDK Race Engineering supplied with the product are authoritative for installation.